I’m still not sure how the stars aligned to make this possible, but one day in July of 2021 I found myself rolling grape leaf dolmas (yalanchi, sarma) for the magical sibling team behind Isfahan, a Persian-Armenian culinary pop-up with live music.
Liam Kazar, the headlining talent, both a chef and a musician, came up with the concept for Isfahan in Kansas City, Missouri, when, thanks to COVID, he became an out-of-work musician. His sister, Sima Cunningham, also an out-of-work musician, helped him mobilize and market it.
I was beyond excited when I learned that there was an event in North Adams, Massachusetts and then I almost passed out when I realized that two of the events were in the CATSKILLS. Was it happening? Was the next generation of Armenians returning to the Catskills and making their own version of kef? I bought tickets immediately for the first one in Mass at Tourists, a hip and contemporary hotel and venue.
The food, music and company was so wonderful that when I returned to my hotel room I sent a thank you note and offered my help in the kitchen for their upcoming events in the Catskills. Two weeks later I was at Sunshine Colony, rolling dolma with Sima during the peak of summer in the Catskills while Liam and his trusty crew manned the kebab. It was a full-circle moment.
As we wrapped up the final evening of service, Liam was dreaming about what’s next for Isfahan…. “manti from scratch!” he proclaimed, followed by a panicked look from his big sister, who knows how tedious that process is.
Isfahan is currently on pause since the kids are back on the road, making music, their first love. Which makes the fact that this happened all the more special. I told Liam that when he’s ready to make manti… from scratch to let me know. Hopefully the stars will line up again.
P.S. Sima jan, don’t forget to send me your jingalov hats recipe.






Photo by Sima Cunningham

