No matter what you call this dish, it’s one of the best stick-to-your-ribs winter meals ever!
I can recall Yeranuhe Nanny making herriseh with lamb – or a combination of lamb and chicken. This dish, a winter or holiday specialty, was always served with a bowl of freshly ground cumin for us to sprinkle on top.
I have to admit, when I was young this recipe did not appeal to my culinary senses; it reminded me of creamy oatmeal with meat; it simply didn’t make sense. As I got older, I must have gotten wiser, because I finally realized just how delicious – and nutritious – herriseh truly is. I guess Nanny knew best!
Herriseh, or keshkeg, combines skinless whole wheat kernels with lamb, chicken, or even turkey, with a good amount of liquid (water, broth, or a combination), salt, butter (optional), cumin, and if desired, paprika. The trick is to cook this for a very long time — without stirring — until the consistency becomes something like thick oatmeal, but much tastier! (Note: the wheat kernels, or pearled wheat – “dzedzadz”- can be purchased in most Middle Eastern stores.)
Robert Witt, a reader from Texas, wrote recently, asking if there was a recipe for this dish. He said he’d eaten herriseh in a very nice restaurant in Yerevan.
“It was made with chicken, and served with lavash, making the world seem all right – and a bit of Armenian cognac didn’t hurt the situation any, either!”
What a great reaction, especially considering that this was part of his introduction to Armenian cuisine as well as Armenian culture. He went to Armenian to visit his son, his soon-to-be daughter-in-law, who is from Armenia’s capital, and her family.
Congratulations on your son’s forth-coming wedding, Robert — and welcome to the world of Armenian food!
Here’s my version of Armenian Stew with chicken.
I don’t know about you, but in our family, we’re all about tradition when…
It’s that time of year again! St. Sarkis Day, the moveable feast day on the…
Way back in 2010 Ara Kassabian shared his family’s recipe for Nevik with The Armenian…
With Thanksgiving Day just hours away, I thought I’d share a few of our favorite,…
My family and I had the distinct honor of meeting George Mardikian at his restaurant,…
My first encounter with Antonio (Tony) Tahhan, the Syrian-American food writer, researcher, and storyteller, spans…
This website uses cookies. find out more.
View Comments
My dear Dad called it 'keshkeg'...and one fond memory was when Mom was gone to a ladies retreat and I was keeping the kitchen fires burning for him and my brother. I was trying to make a chicken soup with barley...and in my inexperience ended up with a barley porridge. Dad asked me if I had made keshkeg for him - and as I had no idea what he was talking about, he explained it to me. I earned a nickname for a while as the "accidental armenian"...LOL...
Ah! Perhaps that's how keshkeg was first created!
Although beating with a wooden spoon (or metal masher) is time consuming, I find that it gives a better flavor to the harrissah. Maybe it's all that elbow grease dripping in LOL. Another option is to put some of the harissah in a food processor, but again, it does not have the same flavor. Next time I make it, I am going to try making it in a dutch oven and cooking longer, to see if it naturally turns into porridge.
Incidentally, in Adana, where my grandmother is from, they make the harissah with lamb and yarma, which I understand is like bulghur, but made from corn.
Ara, i put mine in a slow cooker overnight, by the following afternoon, it tastes just like it does after beating it.
Hello... if you would be so kind could you please send me the exact recipe for keshkeg in the crockpot??? I cannot find one online. Thank you, Julie
Hi Julie, Here's the recipe you requested from friend, Ruth Bedevian: Keshkeg in a Crockpot from Ruth Bedevian
Ingredients:
1 cup gorgod (shelled whole-grain wheat- sold in Middle Eastern stores)
2 chicken breasts, cooked
4 cups chicken broth
2 cups water
1 Tbsp. butter
½ tsp. each salt and pepper
Garnish: ground cumin, optional
Directions:
Wash gorgod in a colander and drain. Place in crockpot and add the chicken, chicken broth, water, butter, salt and pepper. Cover lid and set crockpot on low or high setting depending on your unit (6-8 hours is sufficient). When cooked, the mixture will look like porridge. Beat with a hand mixer or hand blender so that the chicken is shredded.
Serve with cumin sprinkled on top, if desired.
I agree, Ara, the longer the cooking, the better the taste. Good-old, heavy-duty stirring does produce the best result, too.
You are correct about yarma, also. It's split, boiled, then dried corn that's pounded with a mortar and pestle.
Ah! Keshkeg! Love it (husband hates it, can't even smell it!) We've always made it with lamb. Didn't even know it could be made with turkey or chicken. I'm very curious as to the taste difference. Can't imagine. Now I'm craving it. I think I'll call up Mom and have her make it for me!
Dear Andovercookiemama,
If your mother makes you the chicken or turkey version of keshkeg, would you be kind enough to share your taste evaluation with the rest of the readers?
Thanks!
The chicken version is what my family always used and it was great !!
Robyn,
My Mom made the chicken keshkeg! Here my evaluation. As I sit here eating the chicken version I'm thinking I wish this was made from lamb! Now, maybe that's because it's what I used to, however, I think it's more than that. Lamb has a stronger flavor. I know I'm eating keshkeg but I feel like I need to add more salt to really get the flavor to come out. I've already added some so I think that the chicken just doesn't have the intensity that the lamb does. Having said that, it's still good! A true treat that I am enjoying but next time Mom, make it with lamb!
Dear Andovercookiemama,
I hear you loud and clear. I, too, prefer it with lamb, but had chicken on hand the day we made it.
Thanks for sharing your evaluation.
Hi! I'm a filipino who's in LOVE with Chicken Herriseh! Thanks for posting this recipe! Is skinless whole wheat kernels same as bulgur wheat or barley? We have some Armenian groceries in the area but I don't know exactly what to ask for!
Thanks!
Ok Vanessa, here are some definitions that might help:
Bulgur: wheat kernels that have been steamed, dried and crushed. It's not the same as barley or skinless whole wheat kernels, and is not used for herriseh.
Barley: a hardy grain; "hulled" barley has the outer husk removed & is the most nutritious form of barley. "Pearled" barley has the bran removed and is steamed and polished.
Skinless whole wheat kernels: also known as dzedzadz, is hulled uncooked wheat.
Either barley or skinless whole wheat kernels (dzedzadz) can be used to make herriseh.
Hope this helps!