Last week I heard from Ron Takakjian, one of my Dikranagerdtsi
cousins. He wanted to share a kufteh preparation method he’d never tried, and
wanted my opinion about it before he gave it a go.
An Italian friend of his suggested he make kufteh like
one would make ravioli. What Ron’s friend said was this, “Instead of cupping
the outer shell in your hand and forming it around the stuffing , try rolling the outer shell till it is paper thin, and with a cookie cutter, cut into
circles, add filling, then top with a larger circle.
one would make ravioli. What Ron’s friend said was this, “Instead of cupping
the outer shell in your hand and forming it around the stuffing , try rolling the outer shell till it is paper thin, and with a cookie cutter, cut into
circles, add filling, then top with a larger circle.
I told Ron it sounded reasonable, and to go for it. I
also asked him to send me photos and the recipe he was going to use. (You can
never have too many kufteh recipes!)
also asked him to send me photos and the recipe he was going to use. (You can
never have too many kufteh recipes!)
Ron said he’d try the technique over the weekend and let
me know how it turned out.
me know how it turned out.
Here’s Ron’s report:
“I did it and they turned out great!! It worked so well I
made the entire batch this way. Rolled out the meat and with my hands spread it
out (like my Mom used to do making lavash). The outer shell was just thin
enough to hold the filling and gave a great balance between meechoog and the
kufteh. I don’t make this too often and have never mastered the art of making
really thin outer shell. This was a breeze.”
made the entire batch this way. Rolled out the meat and with my hands spread it
out (like my Mom used to do making lavash). The outer shell was just thin
enough to hold the filling and gave a great balance between meechoog and the
kufteh. I don’t make this too often and have never mastered the art of making
really thin outer shell. This was a breeze.”
Ron used his maternal grandmother’s (Aroosiag Najarian)
recipe that his mom jotted down over 50 years ago.
recipe that his mom jotted down over 50 years ago.
Ron’s updated technique follows his grandmother’s recipe.
Grandma Aroosiag’s Meechoog Kufteh
(Written down by Elizabeth Takakjian, circa 1960)
Filling (meechoog) Ingredients: Prepare
a day in advance
a day in advance
2 1/2 lbs. diced onions (on the large side)
2 lbs. ground lamb
Salt and Aleppo pepper to taste
1 Tbsp. allspice
5 Tbsp. freshly ground coriander
1/3 cup chopped parsley
1 Tbsp. paprika
2 Tbsp. Crisco, or lard (Ron uses butter)
Directions:
Sauté meat in skillet with butter and ¼ cup water until
it simmers and becomes tender. (Water should evaporate; only fat should
remain).
it simmers and becomes tender. (Water should evaporate; only fat should
remain).
In another skillet add 4 to 5 Tbsp. of fat from the
(cooked) lamb and sauté onions until they are limp. (DO NOT OVERCOOK) Add lamb,
parsley, coriander, allspice, paprika, salt and Aleppo pepper. (Cayenne can be
used if you don’t have Aleppo pepper.)
(cooked) lamb and sauté onions until they are limp. (DO NOT OVERCOOK) Add lamb,
parsley, coriander, allspice, paprika, salt and Aleppo pepper. (Cayenne can be
used if you don’t have Aleppo pepper.)
Cover and cook over low heat, stirring frequently, for 30
to 45 minutes.
to 45 minutes.
NOTE: Aroosiag said “make sure the onions don’t disappear
while cooking.”
while cooking.”
Cool and refrigerate until ready to use.
Outer Shell Ingredients:
2 lbs. lean ground beef (or lamb if you prefer)
3 cups #1 (fine) bulgur
Salt and pepper to taste
3 Tbsp. freshly ground coriander
1 egg
Water as needed
Directions:
Mix ingredients – add a little water and knead until it
is a smooth mixture.
is a smooth mixture.
Make a small ball and hold in palm of hand. Cup it and
start to make a hole in the middle of the ball for the filling. (Thinning the
walls the way a potter makes a vase.)
start to make a hole in the middle of the ball for the filling. (Thinning the
walls the way a potter makes a vase.)
Add a tablespoon of filling; bring edges together to
close. Seal top completely and pat with both hands. The kufteh should be flat
on the bottom and round on the top. Keep water handy – you have to work with
dampened hands.
close. Seal top completely and pat with both hands. The kufteh should be flat
on the bottom and round on the top. Keep water handy – you have to work with
dampened hands.
Place kufteh on wax paper.
To Cook:
Drop kuftehs in boiling salted water without overcrowding
the pot. When they float to the top, they’re done.
the pot. When they float to the top, they’re done.
 |
| Ron’s kufteh meechoog (filling) |
Here’s Ron’s updated ‘ravioli-style’ method:
Using a rolling pin, he rolled out half of the outer
shell’s meat-bulgur mixture on a wooden cutting board and with his hands
flattened the mixture until it was very thin. With a large, round cookie cutter,
Ron cut the outer shell mixture into circles.
shell’s meat-bulgur mixture on a wooden cutting board and with his hands
flattened the mixture until it was very thin. With a large, round cookie cutter,
Ron cut the outer shell mixture into circles.
 |
| Rolled outer shell in background |
With one thin patty in his hand, he added one heaping
tablespoon of filling in the center of the circle, and placed a second circle
of the outer shell mixture on top. Ron wet his hands and pinched the edges
together to seal shut. He repeated this procedure with the remaining ingredients.
Ron found that the outer shell was not as dense using the “ravioli’ method.
 |
| Almost done! |
Ron’s final comment: “I’m sure my grandmother wouldn’t
have approved of this method, but these were the best (kuftehs) I’ve ever made!”
have approved of this method, but these were the best (kuftehs) I’ve ever made!”
Many thanks to Ron for doing the work and sharing this
experience – and to his Italian friend for offering the wonderful suggestion!
experience – and to his Italian friend for offering the wonderful suggestion!
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Congratulations to Ron, a multi-talented gentleman.
I remember the Najarians and Takakjians very well.
There were Aram, Haig (Hyo) and Elizabeth (Mumsy).
And there were John,and Satenig, and also Elizabeth (from Brooklyn).
I remember Ron's appearance, when he was quite young, in a piano recital where he played a Prelude by Gershwin. I remember because my son, Antranig appeared on the same program.
My brother, John, and I filmed silent movies of the old gang in Union City as well as Belmar.
I converted them to a videotape, and gave a copy to Mumsy quite a few years ago.
Someday I may put it up on YouTube.
Charles Kasbarian
Very interesting, CK! One thing I neglected to mention in the post is that Mumsy was my Godmother – and –
I strongly encourage you to post those priceless silent movies on You Tube.
What a fantastic BlogSpot! Thanks for the recipe!
RETA@ http://evenhaazer.blogspot.com